На информационном ресурсе применяются рекомендательные технологии (информационные технологии предоставления информации на основе сбора, систематизации и анализа сведений, относящихся к предпочтениям пользователей сети "Интернет", находящихся на территории Российской Федерации)

Healthy Lifestyle

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Bring Back Food for Food's Sake

 

Food—you know that stuff you put in your mouth, chew and swallow to stay alive?—has officially jumped the shark.

I’m not exactly sure when it happened. Was it the molecular gastronomy craze of a few years ago, when chefs squirted popcorn and gumdrop foam over your duck breast, and suddenly preparing a meal became a science experiment?

Or was it the proliferation of celebrity cooking and food travel shows, wherein Anthony Bourdain and a crack team of Navy Seals went undercover in Bangkok to bring back a rare mangosteen, then kept it alive in captivity back in his New York City walk-in cooler. (Slight exaggeration, but not so far from the truth.)

Perhaps the moment came when they began charging $16 for cocktails at my local watering hole. I watched as the bartender dripped some magical, homemade bitters or tincture involving foraged dandelion root or possibly unicorn tears into a tumbler, took a sage leaf, actually spanked it between his palms to “release the fragrance,” and proceeded to mash it with a weapon, or light it afire, or both, before shaking but not stirring it into my organic, sustainably-raised gin.

Given the price, I half expected an actual shark fin to be swimming on top. But of course, as a well-schooled PC foodie, I well know that shark fins are to be avoided at all costs. We are trained to pick our artisanal vices carefully.

Folks, I’m not against good food. And I’m not against consumers buying from smaller, local farms and producers. No argument there.

I say, let’s ramp down this notion of food as fetish, food as porn, food as adventure, food as performance, and get back to basics: Food as food, as something we eat.

www.psychologytoday.com

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